Fun antics in Poser



  • @Lotharen hehe yeah the best thing is just to get started. Indeed there's nothing wrong with V4, unless you wanna get very detailed, but even then there are options. It also depends on how flexible you are and how prepared you are to make adjustments and tweaks. Genesis is cool but its got a very fast market cycle, too fast for me. I've been happy with my version of V4 and PE for much longer than G2 existed before G3 already came out. Better to just settle for something for a few years, build up a big library and get on with life, start making some comics etc.



  • @erogenesis Thanks Ero! There are still a few things I'm trying to figure out with Poser though. Like how to light an interior scene and how to get DOF effects. Those are just a few I've come across so far.



  • @Lotharen said in Fun antics in Poser:

    @erogenesis Thanks Ero! There are still a few things I'm trying to figure out with Poser though. Like how to light an interior scene and how to get DOF effects. Those are just a few I've come across so far.

    With lighting, just stay true to reality. If there's a lamp somewhere, put a light in it and nothing more. A lot of Poser artists just load tonnes of lights into a scene and just kill the scene. There are some additional tricks like when you have a window and you have sunlight streaming through (sun obviously being infinite light at 400%) you can add another bluish point light just outside the window with a very large shadow blur (like 20). You'll get a bit more ambient light going. But let IDL do the rest.

    DOF is simple. Check DOF in the render settings. Focus on the subject using the cross-hairs that appear when dialing the camera's focus distance. For the rest all you need to worry about is the fStop, which works just like a camera: an fStop of 4 will produce a very blurry background, and fStop of 22 will make the blur almost non-existent. I usually with a focal point between 18-40 with an fStop of 7 or 11.

    For the rest its the materials that will make your render succeed. Avoid using translucence and ambient. Only use ambient for laptop screens, TVs, light bulbs and skies, or anything else that gives light. If you have an SSS node stuck into the Alt Diffuse, dial the Diffuse Value to zero. The image stuck into the main diffuse channel will then just be for the preview.

    Very crudely, things that need SSS: skin, hair, ceramic cups, milk, murky water, or anything that absorbs light and redistributes it in a diffuse way. The rest is just a balance of diffuse color, bump, spec and/or reflection. And of course refraction+reflection (or Fresnel) for glass and water. You'll need more raytrace bounces for refraction and reflection in a scene. Perhaps even 4 or 5 depending on how many things the ray needs to pass through.

    For the rest ask Bagginsbill haha!



  • PS; set your lights to Inverse Linear, or Inverse Square. And the series above with the boat, is all lit with one infinite light. IDL does the rest just like in real life.



  • @erogenesis Wow! Thanks! There is so much to learn, sometimes I think Ill never understand it all. I read so many posts that I'm just lost in because of all the tech jargon, but I want to learn so I can get better. Thanks so much for helping.



  • @Lotharen hehe there is a lot to learn, but that stuff up there is all you need to get started with some cool renders like I do them. Don't overdo it, and take example from reality / photos.



  • @erogenesis Thanks again for so much help. I have run into one road block - I can't find how to set the lights to Inverse Linear or Inverse Square. I looked everywhere, settings, parameters, even the material room - and nothing! I must be missing it somewhere, could you guys give me a GPS waypoint to it? lol

    Also, I have a lot of exterior sets but hardly anything interior and what I do have seems really, small. Have any of you run into this issue? It seems the moment I get my camera past the wall I'm to far in and this particular interior scene didn't have each wall selectable, so I couldn't delete one. Might have to learn how to model some walls and make a stage set or something.



  • @Lotharen those light controls are on the properties tab. the pallet with the dial adjusters for movement and size etc. click on the tab that sais Properties and at the bottom you will see light falloff controls



  • @Lotharen As ghostship says, you can access the light controls here. You can only change the inverse falloff on a spot or point light though.

    0_1485431530501_light_options.jpg

    Also, regarding your exterior sets and not being able to see through walls, you could also try experimenting with the Hither value of the camera, it adjusts where the clipping of objects in the camera view starts. So if something is closer to the camera than where the hither starts, it won't be visible in camera.
    Here's an example picture. Nothing has changed except the hither value on the camera. As you can see, the higher the value, the further into the scene you can see.

    0_1485432802915_hither_values.jpg



  • Ahh okay, thanks for pointing that out! I was using a infinite light, so that explains why I couldn't find it. So much to learn, I appreciate the assistance guys. :)



  • @raven said in Fun antics in Poser:

    Also, regarding your exterior sets and not being able to see through walls, you could also try experimenting with the Hither value of the camera, it adjusts where the clipping of objects in the camera view starts. So if something is closer to the camera than where the hither starts, it won't be visible in camera.

    Nice!

    Superman eyes = Hither Function (Clip-plane)

    Thanks for that tip!