Question for Marvelous Designer gurus
What's the trick to exporting clothing with realistic looking seams (where things are stitched together). In other words, with slight indentations where seams or internal lines appear? I must be missing something somewhere.
Also, how do you make edges that look finished or hemmed, instead of leaving raw edges on hems or sleeves? (adding thickness to edges that would otherwise look paper thin)
What I do is making a bump map in Paintshop pro, you can also use Photoshop or the paintprograme of you choice of course.
This how I do it:
I open the obj file in UV-mapper pro, this what I usually do when I have made a cloth object exported from MD. I assign new groups and materials to the different part of the clothing.
And I save an UV-template as BMP-file at a rather high resolution, mostly 4000x4000 pixels, depends a bit how big the cloth is.
Open the template in paintshop pro and make a new layer.
On this layer I use a magical wand (this is a real tool) to select the contours of the cloth parts, and invert the selection and shrink the selection by about 4-5 pixels.
I use the fill bucket tool to paint everything with the selection white.
Invert the selection and use the fille bucket tool again to paint everything within the inverted selection black.
Delete the selection.
Use the soften-gauss tool to soften the edges, by 4-5 pixels
Save the file as jpg with a obvious name, usually use the clothname with a "_b" added.
In the material you can use this file as a bump map to make seams more clear, 1 to 3mm (0,04"- 0.12") bumpheight will be enough.
In paintshop you can also combine the bump map with a cloth texture bumpmap, which makes it more realistic.
Thanks. So you typically handle it in the texture and not the geometry. I suppose that's easily doable! Thanks.
It is more simple to do it this way then changing the geometry, incidentally, it makes no sense to change the geometry, because it got washed out during poser's simulation process. But by using a bumpmap, the cloth doesn't look like paper.
I also sometimes use MD's piping, which works in poser. as long it's designed to a soft decoration group.